Written by Ilman Ramadhanu | Read in Indonesian

Following fashion week has become more enjoyable due to a recent surge of Indonesian models making their marks on international runways.

Rizal Rama debuted at the Fendi Fall 2022 menswear show and has since become a popular face in the fashion capital, walking for Wooyoungmi and Comme des Garçons. Shahnaz Indira and Douglas Moore walked for Simone Rocha and JW Anderson, respectively, in the same year.

A fresh generation of Indonesian models followed, as Viknes Waren recently walked for menswear juggernauts such as Zegna, while Jacey Philana debuted during this year’s couture season, walking for Christian Dior and Valentino. 

Prior to this, there were sporadic international appearances by Indonesian models, such as Laras Sekar for Y/Project in 2017. However, this time, the consistent presence of Indonesian models on the global stage could signify the rise of the Indonesian modelling industry and foreshadow a seismic shift in the landscape.

The factors that led to this

“The global modelling industry is currently focused on seeking fresh, unique and authentic faces that represent something,” said Andhika Dharmapermana, a scout and creative director for Persona, a household model agency in the Indonesian fashion scene which has become the go-to agency for many local brands and designers since its establishment in 2016. They represent some of the aforementioned models, including Rizal, Viknes and Jacey, along with established models such as Ranti Kusuma.

As the global modelling industry now prefers authentic models, Indonesian models are in an advantageous position. He explained how Indonesia possesses an array of unique faces with authentic stories, thanks to our rich cultural heritage and diverse ethnic backgrounds. This becomes a compelling selling point for Indonesian models as it is something that global fashion has rarely seen before. 

This became the impetus for Persona’s concerted effort to enter the international scene. This direction is facilitated by social media which, according to Andhika, has made everything easier as it demolishes geographical barriers for international scouts. “Distances shrink and time becomes biassed so there are no longer any boundaries in modelling between countries,” he explained. 

Everything is centred around individual identity

This hyperfocus on authenticity expands what is expected from models and reshapes how the entire modelling industry works. Not only are models expected to know how to walk or pose, but also to understand their identity and project it through personal branding.

Ranti Kusuma reflected on this transformation as she reminisced how in the past there were only a few walking techniques for models to learn. Today, walking has evolved into a celebration of individual character, where every step becomes a reflection of the model's personality.

At Persona, focusing on the model’s authenticity is not merely about adapting to this change, but rather Persona’s fundamental approach to modelling. “For us, everything is centred around the individual's identity. So, our initial focus is on cultivating their self-awareness.”

Authenticity is one of those words that can be understood at face value but hard to digest on an existential level. This is why they employ exercises like olah rasa, an acting exercise that provides a cathartic release for past traumas and negative emotions, allowing models to uncover their true DNA, interests and distinct characters. 

But knowing their identity would be useless unless they know how to visualise them into something tangible. This is why personal branding is a substantial process.

Each model is equipped with certain keywords that represent them. Rizal Rama mentioned that his attributes include mysterious, cold and outsider. These attributes form the foundation from which their signature walks, style choices and social media presence are built upon. 

Rizal highlighted the power of the model's authenticity, which serves as their voice in an industry where dialogue is limited. It makes models memorable and noticeable. Without the understanding of who they are, models are just simply walking without any value to offer. 

Discovering their authentic selves is crucial in adapting to the evolving market, as now each model has their own universe. Brands and designers, too, possess distinct identities, and they often select models whose signatures align with their artistic identities. This enables models to carve out unique niches within the industry.

The paradox of diversity

The conversation surrounding authenticity in the modelling industry has also brought up the topic of diversity, as reflected in Persona’s model line-up which includes a diverse range of individuals, encompassing different skin tones and sizes, along with mature and non-binary models. 

However, diversity in the modelling industry often comes with undisclosed terms and conditions. We can see this in how the representation of plus-size female models remains confined to Precious Lee or Paloma Elsesser, the noticeable absence of plus-size male models in high-fashion runways, as well as the huge number of modelling agencies that apply exclusionary physical criteria. 

“I think that models have a different reality than regular people,” Andhika explained when asked about his opinions regarding this issue. Diversity, he pointed out, doesn't imply that everyone can be a model. There are still certain attributes that models are expected to possess, such as certain heights, facial features, or star power.

This is intertwined with how fashion has historically been marketing its products by creating aspirational yet unattainable beauty standards, with models personifying these ideals. Traces of this paradigm might still persist, though now the perception of beauty has evolved to encompass a more inclusive definition of what a model should embody. 

Future challenges

The international success of Indonesian models coincides with challenges that may impede their progress. One of which is social media that brings forth a wave of influencers that arguably poses a threat to the relevance of models.

However, Ranti explained that models and influencers operate in different landscapes. There is a creative process in which models are often involved to convey the brand’s vision, utilising their authenticity to become an extension of the brand. On the other hand, influencers leverage their followers to promote and sell products, with the brand usually holding the creative vision.

Another potential threat to the modelling industry looms from the future—the rise of CGI models. We've seen the emergence of fully CGI models like Shudu, who has amassed 240,000 followers and has inked sponsorship deals with brands like Louis Vuitton, Ferragamo, as well as Fenty.

Both Rizal and Ranti had a nonchalant reaction to this possibility. “I don't think it is going to replace humans 100%, I think it will just be a passing trend,” Rizal analysed. They both emphasised the importance of the human element in modelling, suggesting that a future dominated by computer-generated models would lack the soul and, therefore, be rather boring.

There might be some truth to their blase attitude; after all, the prospect of CGI models having a pervasive effect is still so far ahead. But the reality that we can focus on right now is that the international modelling industry is knocking at our doorstep and, as Andhika emphasised, we need to prepare ourselves to meet this growing international demand. 

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